Vintage-inspired sneaker brand Autry has marked a significant milestone in its global expansion strategy with the launch of its first standalone flagship store in London, situated in the heart of Soho on Beak Street.
This move underlines the brand’s growing influence across Europe and reaffirms its commitment to establishing a physical retail presence in key fashion capitals.
The London flagship officially opens on Thursday and will be followed by a new boutique in Paris in the first half of 2025. These store openings are part of Autry’s mid-term vision to launch around 20 monobrand locations, a plan reaffirmed despite global retail challenges.
In early 2024, Autry reported preliminary sales of €120 million, a strong indicator of its accelerating momentum. The company’s ambitious expansion strategy has been bolstered by the involvement of private equity firm Style Capital, which acquired a 51% stake in March 2023.
The acquisition, valued at €300 million, saw The Made in Italy Fund retain a 7% share, with the remaining 42% still held by the founding Doro family. Autry was revived in 2019, and its resurgence has been nothing short of impressive.
“We’re on track with the original retail development plan, although the context is not easy,” said Roberta Benaglia, CEO of Style Capital
Benaglia noted that London and Paris have always been pivotal cities for the brand. While Autry already enjoys a robust wholesale presence in Italy, these flagship openings are key to building a strong brand presence in other fashion-forward markets.
The 2,152 sq. ft. space in Soho is a visual tribute to Autry’s blend of vintage Americana and modern minimalism. The interior boasts granite-clad floors and walls, contrasted by a floccato-coated ceiling. Floating shelves and steel racks add a clean, urban aesthetic, while bold furnishings introduce vivid colour to the neutral backdrop.
Key design elements include:
- A Klein blue carpet featuring the Autry logo
- A red travertine display table
- A lacquered red counter
- A blue Tufty-Time sofa by Patricia Urquiola for B&B Italia
- Stadium-inspired lighting as a nod to the brand’s athletic heritage
To commemorate the opening, Autry is releasing an exclusive capsule collection that includes a sweatshirt, T-shirt, baseball hat, and a special edition of its iconic Medalist sneakers—all featuring a pink reinterpretation of the logo and the store’s address.
“Opening them in tandem allowed us to create two strongholds in two important cities for fashion.”— Roberta Benaglia
Before these flagship ventures, Autry tested the waters through shop-in-shops at premium department stores including Rinascente (Milan and Rome), Galeries Lafayette (Paris), Hyundai and Lotte (Seoul), and Globus (Geneva).
This strategy has paved the way for a more confident push into direct-to-consumer retail, which currently accounts for 25% of the brand’s total sales.
Although the company is scaling up, Benaglia emphasised the importance of measured, organic growth. The brand’s strongest market remains Italy, with a well-established wholesale network. However, the focus has shifted towards refining distribution to create a sense of exclusivity and maintain brand prestige.
“Autry operates in a bread-and-butter category of the market, with its iconic models,” said Roberta Benaglia
Since securing majority ownership, Style Capital has steered Autry towards greater international recognition through high-profile collaborations, including artist Robert Pruitt during Art Basel Miami and Japanese designer Mihara Yasuhiro. Another collaboration is expected to be unveiled later in 2025.
Market Presence and Future Projections
Autry’s top-performing e-commerce markets are:
| Rank | Country |
|---|---|
| 1 | France |
| 2 | Italy |
| 3 | Germany |
| 4 | United States |
| 5 | United Kingdom |
In the U.S., partnerships with Saks, Nordstrom, and Bloomingdale’s have helped increase the brand’s visibility. Despite this progress, Benaglia stressed that Europe remains a central focus.
When asked about supply chain concerns, she stated that Autry does not manufacture in China, giving the brand an edge amid tariff uncertainties.
Expansion in Asia and Product Diversification
Autry recently assumed direct control of its operations in South Korea by launching a local subsidiary, and plans are underway to establish a majority-owned joint venture in Japan. The company is also cautiously entering the Chinese market through selective wholesale channels, without immediate plans for retail expansion.
“The fact that we currently have little exposure to that market has preserved us from the effect of slowdown in spending there,”— Roberta Benaglia
To broaden its appeal beyond the iconic Medalist line, Autry has introduced new styles aimed at different demographics. These include the retro-inspired Windspin and the Hyperway, a chunky, active sneaker designed with fashion-forward consumers and women in mind.
Looking ahead, Autry anticipates a modest yet healthy sales growth, with projections to reach €140 million in 2025.
“A healthy growth amid a volatile market in which we think it’d be inappropriate to overexpose the brand,” said Roberta Benaglia
